Tastemarker Series

 

Featuring Nodoguro


With a year of change came the beautiful opportunity for our Collaboration Dinner with Nodoguro, which sold out in no time. One of the most revered restaurants in Portland for Japanese cuisine (and a Bon Appétit favorite!), their restaurant served only a handful of lucky diners a night.

"The pandemic really changed our lives dramatically and has offered us a reset. Nodoguro will live on, but will change with us." In a year of transition, Ryan & Elena pivoted with bento boxes, Tonari, and Elena launched a new company called Eleusis. We sat down with Ryan to get a glimpse into their world.

Labor of Love   

You are a seven-time James Beard Award-nominees. What do you think it takes to achieve excellence? 

I have to admit that when we received our first notification from the James Beard Foundation, it came as quite a shock. We were a tiny pop-up restaurant in the side room of a grocery store and thought a slick PR team was required to be recognized. We learned that if we just did what we loved and focused on the desire for our guests to come again, that was enough for us. As chefs, many of us chase recognition for one reason or another, but it is a distraction from the pursuit of offering great food and transmitting our energy. If you want to achieve excellence, do what you love every day, try to do it better than yesterday, and experience it as often as you can with the eyes of a beginner.

Harmonious Pairings

Some find it challenging to pair wine with Japanese cuisine. What do you suggest?

We love to pair the early light portions of our meals with dry and crisp bubbles. The bubbles are great with sashimi, oysters, and caviar. When we switch to rich Izakaya flavors, wagyu, or our Tonguekatsu sando it is fun to pair with Pinot Noir as the flavors stand up well to a bold Pinot. My favorite Chardonnay pairing is our buttery Dungeness crab, miso, and mushroom dish.

Creative Journey

Bon Appétit referred to Nodoguro's Hardcore Omakase as 'worth the price tag and then some'. What is your creative ethos and how does it translate into the experience?

I have been to and worked at amazing restaurants. The best ones start with a vision from creators that are smart, passionate, and serious about their craft. They are usually uncompromising and detail-oriented about their product and experience, but for me, this is often a recipe for a very boring dinner. If we expect everyone to nerd out and experience every detail in the way that we created it, we may not connect with our guests in a meaningful way. We have tons of philosophies and values about creation, but the most vital ethos is to consider the perspective of your guests. We want to transmit the energy of our creations in a way that is user-friendly in terms of value, time, and most of all fun.

Local Wonderland

What is your favorite PNW ingredient and how do you enjoy cooking it? Do you have tips to share with us?

Geoduck. I like to serve it while it is still moving with light sauces and accents. It has a distinct flavor that should come through and be highlighted. If you do too much you could bury it. My advice is to have a light touch when preparing geoduck from the time you receive it until it touches the plate. Some people recommend blanching it before you remove the skin, but warm water will allow you to peel the skin without damaging the texture of the clam. Peel and scrub with a natural vegetable brush, but get it back into ice water as quickly as possible for a sweet and crunchy geoduck.

Turning a New Leaf

Elena recently started a new company called Eleusis. We use her 100% natural home products at the winery and are obsessed! What inspired her to start this business?

Elena has always been on a journey to optimize our health and wellness, but it was only after the birth of our son, Arsyeny that our soaps and cleaning products became a focal point. Our son has a rare genetic condition that makes his skin incredibly dry and sensitive. His comfort and health have been a top priority and when Elena couldn’t find a soap gentle enough for his skin, she developed one. Eleusis now has a much larger product line and Elena has now launched a concierge service that provides home and body detox, therapeutic perfumery, and vibrational therapies.

You can find Eleusis products in the online store and make sure to follow Nodoguro on Instragram to hear about their upcoming pop-ups.

 
Hospitality Roy